The Blayais

The Blaye region, with the estuary as a landmark

The Blaye region, rich in natural and cultural heritage, is the wine-growing area (Blaye - Côtes de Bordeaux) in northern Gironde, bordered by Charente-Maritime, the Libournais region, and the right bank of the Gironde estuary. It is a landscape of vineyards stretching as far as the eye can see, dotted with small valleys where charming châteaux and stone houses stand, built from the local Bourgeais stone, which lends a shimmering golden hue to their facades. This contrasts sharply with the green of the surrounding countryside and vineyards.

Along the estuary, particularly on the coastal road, galleries have been transformed into troglodytic dwellings. At certain times of the year, guided tours are organized to explore them. The villages of the Blaye region are home to small Romanesque churches that are true architectural gems. Numerous hiking trails allow visitors to discover them.

Blaye, in the shadow of the citadel

The Vauban Citadel, a city within a city, is built on a cliffside and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2008. It attracts many visitors. Access is free, as is the car park opposite it, at the foot of the ramparts. Visitors can wander at their leisure, exploring its narrow streets, stopping in small shops, or strolling through its green spaces, which children love to climb.

Information panels tell its story. To defend Bordeaux and the Kingdom of France from the English threat, Vauban built a citadel encircling the city in 1685, on the orders of King Louis XIV. Long a military structure, it is now a major tourist attraction in Aquitaine. This monument, covering some thirty hectares and accessible through the Royal Gate or the Dauphine Gate, contains several vestiges: the towers of the former Rudel family castle dating from the 12th century, the Eguillette Tower, and the parade ground. The powder magazine and the Minims convent – magnificently restored – host temporary exhibitions.

Its underground passages leading to the port can also be visited, as can the history and archaeology museum (admission fee applies) at its heart. The citadel, along with Fort Pâté and Fort Médoc, located opposite Blaye, forms part of the " Vauban lock," a unique defensive trio in France.

In July and August, a small tourist train departs from the foot of the citadel, taking passengers on a guided tour of the Blaye region, its vineyards, and the estuary. At 70 kilometers, it's the longest in Europe. It evokes memories of barges laden with wood, stone, and wine. Visitors can also explore the citadel by horse-drawn carriage with the Château Marquis de Vauban, which offers tours of its cellars and wine tastings.

Other emblematic remains of the city: the Basilica of Saint-Romain, now destroyed. Necropolis of the Merovingian kings of Aquitaine, including the most famous Roland, lord of Blaye and nephew of Charlemagne, who was attacked by a band of Basque raiders while crossing the pass of Roncevaux in the Pyrenees.

You can also embark from Blaye for river cruises along the estuary, hopping from island to island. The town of Braud-et-Saint-Louis, on the edge of the estuary, is home to the Blayais nuclear power plant.

South of Blaye, Plassac has preserved the remains of Gallo-Roman villas, attesting to human presence as early as the 1st century. Its small port is utterly charming. Also worth discovering in Saint-Geniès de Blaye are a tidal channel, the small port of Bernu, the carrelets (typical fishermen's houses on stilts), and the wild landscapes of the estuary.

Exceptional fauna and flora can also be observed in the Blayais marshes.

East of Blaye, in the commune of Berson, a memorial stone commemorates the Battle of Cau. During the Second World War, the battle pitted the French Resistance against the Germans and resulted in forty deaths. The village also boasts the fortified house of Reisset, built in the 13th century, as well as mills and fountains to discover along the hiking trails.

Bourg-de-Gironde, the river exception

To reach Bourg-de-Gironde, you can take the coastal road, which runs along the Gironde estuary for about ten kilometers. You can also see troglodytic dwellings in the limestone cliffs. Bourg-de-Gironde, which contrary to its name, is located on the Dordogne River, is a small, peaceful village with its little port on the edge of the estuary, a magnificent covered wash house dating from the 19th century, and its upper town leading to the ruins of the citadel castle, which now houses a horse-drawn carriage museum. From its promontory, you have a view of the village, the estuary, and the Bec d'Ambès.

Near Bourg-de-Gironde, the decorated cave of Pair-Non-Pair features parietal engravings of bison, mammoths, and ibex, dating back 30,000 years. In Lansac, the Grand Puy mill has been completely restored by a volunteer project; a festival is held in its honor in mid-June.

Saint-André-de-Cubzac, birthplace of Commander Cousteau

Located on the Dordogne, the commune of Saint-André-de-Cubzac has a small marina, the port of Plagne, which would not have been disowned by the man who travelled the seas and oceans with his boat La Calypso.

This is where the man in the red cap, Commander Jacques-Yves Cousteau, was born and is buried. A lovely Romanesque church was built by the Benedictines of La Sauve Majeur in the 12th century. The Montalon hillside, at 73 meters, is the highest point in the Haute-Gironde. A few mills still bear witness to the milling past.

At the foot of the Montalon Mill, a stele marks the crossing of the 45th parallel north, equidistant between the North Pole and the Equator. The town is home to the magnificent neoclassical Château du Bouilh, designed by the architect of the Grand Théâtre in Bordeaux, based on the former 16th-century castle.

In the surrounding area, in Cubzac-les-Ponts, one can admire a road bridge built by Eiffel and rebuilt identically by his grandson after being destroyed by the Germans during the Second World War.